North Western Highlands Tour
Wow! Where to even start with this blog write up?! Normally I struggle for the opening line of my blog posts – this one, I don’t even know how I’m going to fit it all in!
This was a last minute, spontaneous, f**k it sort of trip – with a last minute cancellation on a pre-arranged trip, I was left at a loose end. So what to do when you have a week off work?! Simple answer, throw all your adventure toys in your camper van and go – absolutely wherever you want, just go!
So I did just that, I took a chance, leapt & went for it – my word was I rewarded! A campervan stacked with a kayak, a mountain bike & some mountaineering gear, off I went, touring the remote and wild coastlines of the North Western Highlands of Scotland.
I can’t even begin to describe the sheer beauty I experienced in Scotland, throughout this incredible remote adventure trip! I could rabble on with words trying to explain everything I did, where I went and how much of an awesome time I had & how amazing the weather conditions were… But I figured I’d just let the words do the talking! So this blog post is just basically a photo gallery dedicated to incredible memories I’ve taken from the Western Highlands of Scotland.
I found myself in the most Scottish situation, whilst taking in the view over Loch Tulla – a bloke pulls up next to me, gets out, wearing his kilt and starts playing the bag pipes! A really touching moment; stunning Scottish view, with beautiful music in the background!
I never did ask the chaps name – too many people were trying to get a photo with the guy! Whoever you are – thank you!
First on the agenda for the trip was a spot of mountain biking, I spent a couple of days riding on incredibly dry, loose and fast trails at Innerleithen and Nevis Range – home to the nly UK gondola & UCI Downhill World Cup track.
Final mountain adventure in Fort William, before heading north, was the Ring of Steall.
The Ring of Steall is a challenging 10 mile round walk, taking in the stunning Glen Nevis, as well as 4 Munros all linked together by some beautifully exposed ridge lines, most notably the Devils Ridge, as well a grade 1 scramble.
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/fortwilliam/ringofsteall.shtml
With a total ascent of 1676m & 4 Munros (Sgurra’Mhaim, Am Bodach, Stob Coire a’Chairm & Stob Gearanach), the Ring of Steall the perfect alternative to the overcrowded tourist track of Ben Nevis – whilst still providing the same epic views. With 28degress and near blue skies, little wind, the ridge lines and scrambles were simply epic!
The Ring of Steall is a challenging 10 mile round walk, taking in the stunning Glen Nevis, as well as 4 Munros all linked together by some beautifully exposed ridge lines, most notably the Devils Ridge, as well a grade 1 scramble.
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/fortwilliam/ringofsteall.shtml
With a total ascent of 1676m & 4 Munros (Sgurra’Mhaim, Am Bodach, Stob Coire a’Chairm & Stob Gearanach), the Ring of Steall the perfect alternative to the overcrowded tourist track of Ben Nevis – whilst still providing the same epic views. With 28degress and near blue skies, little wind, the ridge lines and scrambles were simply epic!
The falls of Steall is a popular day trip for those visiting Glen Nevis – with the falls being accessed via a track up from Polldubh car park in the Glen, it is beautifully isolated away from any passing road traffic.
Next stop, Torridon; exploring the coastline and the Beinn Alligin Range.
Crystal clear waters of Torridon – simply stunning. I can’t even describe or put into words, both the views and the crystal clear waters – it was heavenly. But like I said, let the photos do the talking…
The Beinn Alligin Range is home to 2 Munros (Sgurr Mor and Tom Na Gruagaich), requiring a scramble over the ‘Horns of Alligin’, taking in yet more exposed ridge lines as well as 1110m ascent and 6.25miles.
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/torridon/Beinnalligin.shtml
Torridon is one of the most dramatic and picturesque landscapes I cam across in Scotland. Crystal clear waters, imposing mountain summits, dramatic ridge-lines & views for absolute days – I loved it!
Watching the sunset back over the mountains range conquered that day – wish I spent more time in Torridon!
The wilderness just offers the perfect escape from daily reality – allows us to forget about the pressures of everyday life.
After 15 hours of hiking, bagging 6 Munros, racking up 16.25 miles and climbing 2786m in 2 days, a rest day was in need!
The sparsely populated Assynt is home to Ardvreck Castle and Calda House, constructed back in 1490, are now both only a fragment of their former glory – yet, a finger of stone pointing to the sky, still strikes an imposing feature on the remote and rugged landscape.
Ended my rest day with an evening on Achmelvich Bay Beach – An absolutely beautiful setting which totally captivated me. The feeling the sand between my toes, listening to the waves crashing on the rocks, sitting on a white sandy beach, under the warmth of the setting sun was totally mesmerising and unforgettable.
So good for the mind to destress and unwind – being alone its quite easy to be drawn into the trap of spending too long on your phone, looking at what other people are doing – so having no phone signal made it so much easier to get stuck into some reading. I thoroughly enjoyed my time reading books that aren’t engineering or university related!
I wouldn’t normally shout about such a gem – but its probably the worst kept secret in Scotland!
Feeling fully refreshed, I got my mountain game back on – heading to Suilven, an iconic & unique mountain due to its odd shape, protruding from the ground almost like a thumb, it is nicknamed the ‘Toblerone’! By comparison, it doesn’t look as rough or as jagged as the other mountains. From loch Inver, it looks smooth, gentle and not as fierce and sharp in appearance – however that’s only from a distance and from the end view projection (engineering terms coming out!)
It is an incredibly remote mountain, accessed by a 5 mile hike from the Glen Canisp lodge, down an All Terrain Vehicle track. Once that is completed, you’re nicely warmed up and also getting the first side view of the mountain – where it no longer looks as smooth and friendly! Instead, you’re staring up a super steep AF 947m ascent!
To describe it would be like saying walking up a vertical wall – this then gets you onto a ridge line, from which can enjoy some incredible panoramic views back over to Loch Inver & out to sea, before traversing across to the summit!
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ullapool/suilven.shtml
I later found out, people access the mountain by kayaking up Loch Veyatie and ascending from the opposite side of the mountain.
I’d also like share the work being done by the John Muir trust here – sterling job of fixing the path, which evidently gets well-trodden, but also is home to a river when the rains arrive!! In the photos you can probably see a trail of white ‘blobs’ – these are bags of stone waiting to be laid into the path!
Sandwood bay – anther blissfully remote spot, which can only be accessed by a 6.5km track! It is a dull walk in – I can’t lie. Nor can I advertise that you should mountain bike down a footpath, but I can advise that it certainly makes a dull track more interesting…!
Sometime a place puts a smile on your feel and you feel a connection to it – its difficult to describe, but it brings you so much joy when you remember the memories you created in that special place – you’ll know it when you get it & you’ll cherish the feeling. Sandwood gave me that feeling. Secluded. Off grid. No access to the world beyond.
I’ve spent years thinking a holiday always has to be far afield, to the most glamorous, popular and well known destinations – Scotland has well and truly proven me wrong! I simply love the place more and more each time I visit!
Some of the best destinations truly are on our doorstep & they’re just so easy to overlook!
Spent my final evening watching the sunset over the Summer Isles, from Badenscallie, Achiltibuie. I would highly recommend kayaking out to one of the Islands & camping.
My final day before heading home, it would’ve been rude not to sneak in one last mountain before beginning the arduous drive home!
Stac Pollaidh – Reminded me of the Old Man of Storr & Quiriang on Skye, just endless trails, scrambles and climbing routes to explore, on a rough jagged mountain. Some incredible panoramic views back over the Assynt region.
I still cannot comprehend or put into words just how unbelievably beautiful Scotland was during this trip – I really hope my pictures do it some kind of justice! I’d implore anyone to go visit, its just simply breathtaking!
Remote locations with little company, makes you all the more appreciative of friends and family. Sometime I get irate with people, but distance makes you appreciate the thinsg they do and the warmth/homely feeling they offer.
A couple of things I wish I’d have done…;
- Kayaked summer isles and wild camped on an island for sunset – now having seen them and assessed the situation. I’m really not to clued up on sea kayaking, whilst the isles were in sight – being on my own, I thought it wasn’t the cleverest idea!
- Wild camped at Sandwood bay beach. Having seen the beach and the trail in, I know it is suitable for doing so – 6.5km is a long way to trek to find out you can’t wild camp & trek back out in darkness!
So many photo opportunities, found myself having to stop in so many laybys – making already long journeys take so much longer!! Must’ve taken thousands of photos!
North Western highlands, like most of Scotland is uber van friendly – So many park ups available, without having to look to far.
As part of Scotland’s access legislation, the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003, gives the right to roam in Scotand, meaning unlike majority of England, wild camping is allowed most places – aside from Loch Lomond & the Trossachs national park.
Scottish Outdoor Access code: http://www.outdooraccess-scotland.com/
In general, parking is free. If not, honestly boxes, or £3 all day parking. Can’t complain.
Whilst the roads mostly single track, I found drivers to be exceptionally courteous. Everybody seems to accept its takes patience and time to get from A – B, with no rush. The views are that good, you’ll likely want to stop anyway! Take your time to enjoy it!!
One thing I did find a slight problem, being self-contained, was lack of rubbish bins and recycling bins available on route.
- Problem with this, as clearly found by a lot of other people, is that when you do find a bin, everybody has so much rubbish accumulated, the bins are just so full.
- Also recycling plastic was a problem. I hate buying bottled water, however living in a van in that heat doesn’t give me too many other options – it is convenient too, which makes me part of the problem – so recycling these meant accumulating a lot of them before finding suitable recycling option
Also ticks and midgies are bad. No two ways about it. Go prepared to deal with them. I got a tick in a less than desirable area. Can’t mess about, you have to check yourself, find them and get them out – First aid kit, equipment and knowledge of how to use them is essential.
Although I was treated to 10 days straight of unadulterated sunshine and calm weather, This is definitely not the case for the majority of the year.
Thank you so much for reading! As always, please feel free to like comment and share!
