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Bikepacking: A 3 Day Lake District Bikepacking Epic

With a full weekend of sunny weather, I loaded my bike and kit and headed north for a 3 day Lake District bikepacking epic.

After the success of my recent midweek mountain bike micro adventures, followed by getting my first 100 mile day ride under my belt, I figured the next step on my big multiday bikepacking project was to go do a big multi day bike ride!

Set up.

So much thought and planning has gone into my set up, as far as kit used and routes planned, so I had been really looking forward to putting it all together & giving it a good shakedown.

This particular weekend had all the makings of being a superb trip; a well-known route in a familiar location, with no signs of adverse weather.

The Lake District is easily within driving distance from my front door, a mere 70 mile drive gets you into the heart of the Langdale Valley; a place I have fond memories & cherish deeply. I could have just driven up and done my entire ride in a more scenic location, however I wanted to teach myself some discipline; I didn’t want to do any driving. If nothing else, I wanted the satisfaction of getting to my camp spot with all my kit, under my own steam. I wanted to get into the mindset that there are no short cuts on bigger and more demanding adventures.

So off I went, Friday afternoon straight from work. Beginning my Lake District bikepacking epic by cycling the 70 mile route from Preston to the Langdale valley, linking up national cycle route 6 with a couple of local favourites. Brand new kit, out on its maiden voyage, I was expecting teething issues. None were found, other than a couple of loose straps and minor comfort tweaks. After a couple of miles assessing, thinking and getting into the swing, my face began to light up with joy; satisfaction that only the simplest things bring. Realisation that I was fulfilling my big dream for 2019. That I was cycling in the great outdoors, slightly unsure where I was going, but with all my kit that it didn’t really matter where I ended up. I had everything with me. No dependencies on other people or other factors, just me my bike and my kit, out exploring everything, living simplistically.

Arriving brimming with a sense of fulfilment, I began setting up camp and prepped my supper (Firepot dehydrated meals should be top of every adventurers kit list!). I couldn’t help but smile to myself. This was brilliant, everything I wanted it to be. A culmination of many months planning rotes and calculating my ideal kit set up. I bedded down, incredible satisfied with my day’s achievements.

Camped in the heart of the Langdale Valley.

The only thing on my mind, was waking up to the dreaded Fred Whitton route!

I wanted to push myself you see. 250 miles, 3 days, many many big hills. The Fred is a classic UK supportive route which circumferences and ascending all the intimidating passes in the Lake District. Its regarded by some as the toughest, purely for the consistency and repetitiveness of the hills and gradients.

Saturday morning brought with it typical summer morning conditions. Fresh, cool & clear, but with all the signs of heating up. Setting out early Saturday morning in an attempt to beat the midday heat, with the encouraging words of ‘you’re going to die’ still ringing in my ear from my work colleagues. I breezed over ‘The Struggle’ from Ambleside to the Kirkstone Pass Inn, allowing my 34T 1:1 ratio to do the leg work.

‘Is it named correctly?!’ I heard a bystander shout as I topped out. Truth be told, I felt comfortable and ready for the day ahead. I knew if I struggled here, the entire Fred Whitton would not be feasible.

From Kirsktone Pass Inn, the route thunders down the pass to Glenridding; a fabulous road to look at, but a hair raising one to ride down. At 20% gradients, with a terrible road surface and narrow wall enclosures, keeping your speed in check and avoiding other road users is somewhat frightening. There is no room for error here!

After a scenic bimble along the shores of Ullswater, the route takes a mundane slog down the A66 to Keswick before swooping down the enchanting Borrowdale Valley.

Knowing 3 of the ‘big passes’ were coming up immediately, I knew fuel was required; fuel in the form of coffee and Danish pastries!

There isn’t many Lakeland views finer than that over Buttermere and Crummock, that view is made even sweeter after conquering the 25% gradients of Honister pass. Once more a gruelling descent was followed by a rapid descent, only this time leading immediately into the following two passes; Newlands and Whinlatter.

Cheesy pose after conquering Honister Pass.

Newlands is widely regarded the most spectacular climb on the Fred, not for its technicality or steepness, just purely for the vistas which take your mind off the burning legs.

Spinning at a constant high cadence, grinding it out over the gargantuan passes. That was my strategy for this Lake District bikepacking epic, remain seated, no aggression until absolutely essential. I knew it was a big day, bigger than anything I’ve done before, I didn’t want to burn out. I had veloforte to keep me going. This ride wasn’t about time, this was about enjoyment.

That said, enjoyment isn’t usually a word associated with Hardknott and Wrynose passes! These beasts are located 90 miles into the route. 30% gradients and tight switchback climbs are not what your body needs at this point – but, if it were easy, everyone would do it. I had the motivation of a crisp, cold pint waiting for me in the Langdales. But first I needed to knock over Hardknott, Wrynose and lastly Blea Tarn.

Hardknott is an intimidating looking pass, snaking its way up the fellside from Eskdale. There aren’t many tougher climbs in the UK. With the roads still covered in encouraging messages from previous sportive events, I prayed I wouldn’t have a bad traffic encounter to deal with causing loss of momentum. The bike gods were shining on me this day. I sailed over the pass, with a feeling of total euphoria as I topped out. Breathtaking views opening up into the Duddon valley, the heart of the Lake District in all its glory before me. These are the moments I dream of!

Wrynose felt incomparable afterwards, consumed with confidence and sense of completion – and anticipation of beer. Swooping over the back of Wrynose and Blea Tarn, with all the comfort of a steel bike, I could sense the finish line.

Pint in hand, in my favourite Lake District valley, Fred Whitton done – another pint on order, can’t be bad! All in all, it was a thoroughly enjoyable 10 hour roll out, from start to pint in hand.

Well earned!

On reflection, I didn’t feel the route was as tough as some make out to be. Yes, it’s a long day and yes the climbs are steep, but with a reasonable level of fitness, decent bike and positive mind-set, the Fred is more than achievable.

After one too many celebratory/recovery pints, it was time to gear up and think about riding home. But first, coffee. With sore legs and a happy heart, I set off home knowing I had ticked off another of my 2019 goals.

This 3 day Lake District bikepacking trip was a chance to get lots of miles in. It also gave my kit a good shakedown and allowed me to learn a few lessons;

1. Bikepacking bags with zips are nobody’s best friend.

2. Danish pastries are a phenomenal carb source

3. I must never forget sun cream when the temperature gets above 10 degrees.

This Lake District bikepacking trip was all in prep for my trans-alpine bikepacking trip, commencing this weekend. I intend setting out from Zermatt, exploring everything on my 1000 mile ride across the alps to Vienna. Keep an eye on my social media for updates.

Thanks for reading,

Callum

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