Surfing

Surfing is one of those sports where I love the idea of it, more than the activity. I think what draws me to it most is the raw connection; with the ocean, with the sand, with salty air. I always feel calm & restored after a surf trip.

In my campervan days, I spent many a weekend on the Welsh coastlines, where Atlantic swell meets pristine bays & creates a perfect surf. As I get older, travel more & life gets busier, I still find the beach as relaxing as ever – and I still find in joy in waiting patiently outback, in the hope that one day I’ll catch a wave!